1989 October Travel to the Soviet Union

In mid October 1989, just before the Soviet Union and its currency collapsed. I remember the Ruble was referred to as Toilet paper by the locals on the Streets of Leningrad, now known by its original name St. Petersburgh in Russia.

As a Research Associate at the Astronomy Data Center at NASA Godard Space Flight Center, I went with to an International Symposium in Leningrad, Soviet Union. Wayne Warren Jr. and I shared a room in the 5-* conference hotel which cost 70 Rubles a night, and wondered why anyone would book a room in 2-* hotel which cost 50 Rubles as per the conference brochure.

Early next morning after we checked in, we were woken with a knock on the door. When I opened it, there was an unknown Russian man. He pointed to a large bundle of Rubles in his hand and said American Dollar. Assuming he was trying to sell them I replied How Much He said, You Tell. Not having researched the Black Market for the US$ which was officially worth only 0.6 Rubles, taking a wild guess I offered US$100 for 600 Rubles. He was very happy and gave us most of the big Bundle, and said Bring More and we said No and closed the door.

We were rich with Rubles. We could pay with Rubles at the Hotel Restaurant. So each night we paid the Bill for a small group of about 10 Astronomers Wayne knew, some from Eastern Europe, Georgia, Ukraine, and East Germany. We purchased souvenirs on the Street. However, we could not catch a Taxi, as the driver would pretend to be asleep till you showed US$, even of a small denomination. We wished we had more US$1 notes. On the street we found kids offering 200 Rubles for US$20. I asked them why they would give a typical month's wage of US$20. They said they were collecting to travel to the USA. I remember telling them that would not buy them a meal at McDonald's. However, in 1991 the US$ was worth 100 Rubles and those who had saved US$ were smart.

When it came time to pay the Hotel Bill that was stated in Rubles, we innocently went and gave them the Rubles we had. The cashier looked at us with a puzzled look and said American Dollar. I bluffed and said we didn't have any as we had changed all, hoping that they would not ask for documents of exchange. My claim fell on deaf ear, and the cashier said American Express. Looking at me he said they will accept Indian Rupees. Those who had stayed in the 2-* hotel were able to pay in Rubles and that explained the difference in price. Effectively US$5 and US$120, between the real cost of the hotels.

We had taken a week's leave to travel in the Soviet Union and were able to buy Air Tickets from to Kiev for 30 Rubles each, and a First class Train ticket through Moscow back to Leningrad for 14 Rubles. The Internal Aeroflot flight from Leningrad to Kiev was an experience we should never have taken, as it was hardly pressurized. I remember falling asleep not knowing if I would ever wake, till I was woken mid-flight by an Air-hostess with a glass of Mineral Water who said Drink. Kiev was Interesting and I remember the menus had no Russian.

The Internet was hardly active in the Soviet Union. Domains for Academic Institutions in Leningrad who just had an email ended with spb.su. spb obviously stood for the original and current name Saint Petersburg, and Soviet Union authorities had not noticed.

The news was difficult to get. I had taken my Sony Shortwave Radio so that I could listen to BBC News to find out what was happening in Sri Lanka which was going through a political crisis. The Loma Prieta earthquake occurred on California's Central Coast on 1989 October 17, during the conference and I remember being the only Source of News for all from the USA.

On 1989 October 18, the longtime Socialist Unity Party of Germany (SED) leader stepped down during Public protests, which led to the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9th. I remember discussing the unification of Germany with the East Germans at the conference. They felt it would at least take a decade when it happened within a Year.

It was a trip to the Soviet Union during the crossroads of world history which I will remember forever.


This article was drafted on 2024 July 29th 35 years later on been reminded of this trip by a story in the E-sylum that Russia Bans Ruble Toilet Paper
I need to find images from my archives and expand on this travelogue.


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